The Art of Cleaning a Barn

Cleaning a barn has to be the single most disgusting job and, simultaneously, the single most rewarding one on the farm.  There is an art form to cleaning the various pens out in an efficient way, a method to getting it all clean with the fewest number of wheelbarrow trips. It isn't really anyone's favorite job to have to do on the farm, but it is definitely one of the most necessary.  With four pigs and thirty three chickens living under one small roof, it needs to be cleaned routinely.

Chickens are just plain messy.  There really isn't any way around that fact other than to frequently employ the use of a shovel and broom to their best effects.  Feathers and "litter" ( I love the cute words that people have come up with in place of 'shit'....clearly those people never had to deal with much of it to any extent)...., their litter is everywhere, and I do mean everywhere.  The worst part about this mess is that if it is left too long, it turns into a very dusty mess thus necessitating the use of dust masks.

Pigs, however, are incredibly clean animals.  That may come as a surprise to many people because when you think of pigs, many people generally think of them in mud.  They do love mud, but they like a clean nest to lie in when they are not wallowing in mud.  With enough room to move, a pig will keep their enclosure very clean.  An area to eat, an area to sleep and an area to um, ...well, you know.  Too little space to live in and, against their will, they are forced to make a mess.

Imagine this.....picture yourself locked in a small room in your house.  For convenience, let's say it is the bathroom.  Fine,... now picture several other people locked in there with you....enough people so that moving from one side of the room to the other requires certain tetris-like skills.  Now imagine that all day you have all had to use the same toilet and nobody can flush.  I don't know about you, but a day spent in that sort of environment would likely bring out some homicidal tendencies.  And yet, this is what we expect animals to endure for their entire life.

 The currently accepted CAFO (confined animal feeding operation) system has hogs housed on top of  a vat that holds their own excrement.  The flooring is a slated cement that allows all the waste to fall through into a vat so they don't have to sit in it, but they do have to smell it for their entire life.  This liquid slurry (again with the cutesy words that somehow makes it slightly less disgusting through connotation) is pumped to holding tanks or lagoons to be stored until it can be pumped out onto fields as fertilizer where it will make the environment for miles around stink and potentially run off into creeks and streams....that is if it doesn't spill out first and contaminate ground water.  Chickens, turkeys and beef cows have it even worse....typically their lives are so short that they just have to live on top of their litter the entire time.

Back in the day, when farming actually required husbandry and animals were known as "animals" and not "units", they slept and were housed in barns. They were kept warm and clean with straw.  Let me attempt to explain how the concept of straw works....it provides a carbon source that absorbs the liquids in waste.  Most animal waste contains nitrogen which is what gives it the strong smell.  That nitrogen, when combined with carbon makes a fantastic mix for compost.  Allow it to sit in a pile for a few weeks, get some water rained down on it and it will start to heat up, thus killing harmful bacteria and weed seeds that are present in it.  I haven't actually stuck a thermometer in the middle of my pile, but I do put in a metal rod in it to objectively test the temperature - that rod gets too hot to touch, or roughly about 150 degrees.  When the pile cools down after about 3 weeks, it gets turned and allowed to reheat.  After three or so turns, it is finished enough to go on the garden.  The problem with the current commercial method of dealing with waste - it has eliminated the straw...the carbon is gone.  What that leaves is a large amount of high nitrogen containing waste, and nitrogen on its own without the combination of carbon, smells and, when applied directly to fields, disrupts the natural balance of carbon and nitrogen in the soil.

So, just to reiterate and simplify:

Confinements - litter and slurry in large quantities in a small space, stressed animals, bad smells, contamination of water and unbalancing of nutrients in the ground, but fewer farmers needed.

Traditional farming - straw and manure into compost, happy animals, no bad smell, high quality and complete fertilizer for fields, many hardworking farmers needed.

Yes, traditional farming requires more person power, but for a country that needs to figure out how to come up with 23 million more jobs, and a way to improve the health of its people....this doesn't seem like rocket science.

It is that "hardworking" aspect that is daunting to many people who would like to go back to more traditional farming.   Farming isn't an easy job....never has been, but lately farming has jumped on the corporate and technology bandwagons. Ever larger farms requiring ever larger equipment. There are more computers, GPS units, and entertainment units in most new farm equipment than I have ever had (or will ever have) in my entire house. Farming is not the same physically demanding profession that it used to be, which I guess is good because the average age of most farmers is going up significantly.  In the last 80 years farms have increased significantly in size, but the number of farmers owning the land has decreased and they are aging rapidly. How and why did this happen? One of the main reasons behind some of these changes are that farmers need to grow more and more just to make ends meet.  In a country that demands cheap, highly processed food, the farmer is the lowest link in a chain and doesn't get paid what he or she should be for their efforts, thus they plant more and more corn and soybeans to pay for their new, state of the art, farm equipment. The government has to provide subsidies just to keep these farmers afloat, while at the same time America is facing an obesity crisis because we have to find stuff to do with all this corn and soybeans so we process it into everything. 

 It is a crazy cycle that is completely out of control. 

• huge, subsidized, monoculture crops of corn and soybeans 
• cheap, processed food 
• obese people with metabolic disease 
• increased medical costs 
• generally sicker population that is unable to work effectively.

 And then people wonder why we are in a financial crisis? It's because of the food that we eat! 

Starting at the top of that cycle, and getting away from huge farms with huge crops is the place that we need to start. If you look back at pictures of farmers in the 1940's, there wasn't an overweight one in the lot because they were all physically working hard.  I, personally, have never seen the need for a gym membership when working outside all day burns almost more calories than I can grow.  I think of it as the "farming diet".  If you can't grow it, don't eat it...I should trademark that and take it on the road.  I could make millions....but I digress.

Cleaning a barn is not really all that hard; it is the juggling of the animals that live there while you try to clean it that is often the hardest part. Convincing a 550 pound hog that she really should go investigate outside while her home is stripped of all its soft, well worn, and dusty straw requires a little bribery with some fresh green plants pulled from the garden.  Mr Pig was easier to bribe with a little cracked corn and the chickens come and go as they please while I clean out their coop. The rooster, however, was determined to watch my every move in case I should harass one of his hens.  Fourteen wheelbarrow loads of manure and bedding later, the muscles of my arms twitched with exertion and I was ready for a break.  The highlight, however, is hauling in the new straw.  Watching as the pigs tear into it and spread it around just the way they like it, is immensely entertaining. When Mrs Pig was finally settled into her new clean nest, the chickens meandered over to check it out and Tigger the cat quietly curled up next to her.  It was such a bucolic moment that I just had to smile. If anyone were to tell me that caring for farm animals is a thankless job, I would just point to the look of contentment on my animals' faces and say, "No, they say thank-you all the time."

So, today, as I type this with sore arms, I am reminded that not only did I clean something up, I enlarged my compost pile and made several beings very happy in the process....including myself.

An Open Letter to My Alma Mater

Dear Iowa State College of Veterinary Medicine,

 Thank you for the sound education you gave me regarding anatomy, physiology, bacteriology, dermatology, pharmacology, internal medicine, surgery, histopathology and any number of other 'ologies' that I am sure I have forgotten more of than I ever imagined I would learn.  I am, however, most unhappy with the status of education of production animal medicine. The thing that always sparks me off in this regard is typically a comment or article in the quarterly published Gentle Doctor magazine that I receive since I am supposed to be a happy alumna of the college. This month, it was one of the bullet points in the Dean's Letter p.3 (#4 to be exact)
     

 "Establishment of the Swine Medicine Education Center, a collaborative effort that provides unmatched access to a modern production system that includes 90,000 sows and nearly two million pigs and complements our swine, beef and dairy summer programs, and our rejuvenated food animal field services unit." [emphasis is my own] 

You are supposed to be perceived as the "leader in production medicine" also known as "food animal medicine" or to those lay people that may be reading this, "meat".  You are a land grant college in the very middle of the American Heartland, dedicated to the science an innovation involved in feeding the masses, and yet the system is terribly broken and you are all busy trying to fix the system using more of the same technology that broke it in the first place.  

 Stop.  Look around you. 

The world is slowly waking up to the food that they eat and what it is doing to us.  This is clearly evidenced by books like The Omnivore's Dilemma by Pollan and movies such as Food Inc.  You may have not read or watched them yourselves, but you should.  The research being expressed by these people is sound and, what's more important, makes good sense.  You taught me to look at research objectively and I have....theirs is better than yours.  It shouldn't take more antibiotics to grow our meat, it shouldn't take chemicals to sterilize our food, it shouldn't take people dying from food borne illnesses for you to wake up and realize that maybe nature might have a better way. 

Is it because the large pharmaceutical companies won't pump millions into the coffers that you so desperately need to keep going?  Is it because big businesses like Monsanto, Cargill and Pfizer will leave you high and dry if you actually do what is right and study the differences between organically grown, sustainably managed, pasture fed animals and the high stress, GMO corn-eating, pseudo-food animals that are currently being produced by IBP and Tyson?   For shame.

Well, just so we are clear, this is one veterinarian that you trained that will not be contributing to your college unless it is to train the next generation of veterinarians to think for themselves and wake up to what is happening to our animals.  We take an oath at the completion of our vet school education, an oath to protect the welfare of the animals we treat, to speak for those who cannot speak for themselves and yet here we are locking them up in confinement operations that are clearly NOT in their best interest.  I would like to see any one of you live one day in a space confined such that you couldn't all lay down at the same time and there was so much fecal material in the air around you that it was difficult to breathe.  Or maybe you should all be housed over your own excrement for a while and in such a noisy environment that you can't sleep unless you are completely exhausted.  We have all heard what stress does to our own systems and yet we expect our animals - those that will give their lives so that we may eat - to endure such conditions so that our clients can make the most money per unit.  We have lost track of the fact that those units are, in fact, animals.  Veterinarians should be leaders in this area....we know better and yet we are following - following the big Ag money.   Being led along by our noses in the hopes that we, too, might make a bigger piece of the pie at the expense of all those that we are supposed to be minding the welfare of - the animals and, as a result of that, the people that eat them.

Take a stand.  Will it mean money lost? Probably! Will it mean healthier animals and people? Absolutely! And the people that are waking up to this monstrosity will flock to your doors and beg to learn what you can teach them, or beg for the services of the veterinarians that you graduate.  Be the leader again, please, so that I can once again feel pride at calling you my Alma mater rather than cringing when someone points out that, once again, there is a food recall or thousands of eggs that have been contaminated and the only option is to simply throw more antibiotics or more federal regulations at them. 

We need small farmers in Iowa - not corporate giants.  Iowa is a dying state.  Most of these students that you are teaching right now will likely flee these borders like so many rats from a sinking ship. Wonder why there are a dwindling number of food animal veterinarians? I don't. With corporate giants running the show, how many vets do they really need? There are more large production units and more CAFOs in Iowa than in several of the surrounding states, there is more transgenic corn and soybeans grown here than almost anywhere else.  We need to diversify. 



My own role in this has been to conduct some of my own experiments. Once again you taught me to pay attention and keep records and for this, I thank you.  I can honestly say that there is a clear, distinguishable difference between the eggs that are raised in confined "caged batteries of birds" vs those from my flock of free range hens. I also raise a few pigs, a dairy cow and we buy all our beef from a local farmer that raises them on pasture.  The differences in our food quality and thus our health are substantial. And by supporting local farmers I am helping to ensure that small town Iowa actually has a chance to survive.

I realize that I will very likely not be high on the list to win any of the prestigious awards distributed to the "good soldiers" of the veterinary profession, but it is my honest belief that if you don't periodically stir the pot, all the scum rises to the top. I feel it is my obligation, as outlined by the oath, to continue the improvement of my professional knowledge and competence and so I put this challenge to you as directly as possible.....Lead, don't cave into big agriculture corporations that threaten to undermine this profession and ruin the trust that the populace has previously had in the veterinary community.  Lead, find a better way, a more humane way, a more sustainable way to raise the food that we need to live on.  Lead, so that others will actually want to follow. 

House Bill 589

I know I should stay out of politics, but I am a lot like a moth to a flame - I know I will be torched, but I am just drawn to it, especially when it has to do with farm legislation. Recently a bill has been passed in the house of representatives in Iowa that will make it a felony to videotape any farms without the farmer's permission. House Bill 589. This I find very disturbing. I know it is their farm and they should have privacy to farm as they see fit, but at the same time they are raising food that people will be eating and we, too, should have some right to know how those animals are raised and handled. Farming has gone from being about small family farms to an industrial machine and I find it frightening that the consumers have no knowledge of what goes on behind those closed CAFO doors. The argument, of course, is that if you "see" something you are to report it to the proper authorities. Good luck with that. First of all, you can't "see" what goes on inside those confinement units - you can't see if the air is so polluted that the animals can hardly breathe, you can't tell if the animals are too crowded and therefore over stressed, you can't see if they are periodically beaten about by handlers. There is no transparency to a CAFO building. Second of all, who are the "proper" authorities? As a veterinarian I have come across instances of needing to report abuse and it can get a little dicey trying to figure out who to contact that will actually see that something is done - unless you get media on board and then enough people get angry and the "authorities" are then forced into having to actually do something about a case. There is just not a lot of accountability for some of these farmers. Dairy farmers are probably monitored the best. Their bulk tank where all the milk goes gets checked each time the trucks come from the dairy to collect the milk and if there are any illegal antibiotics in the milk, or the cell counts are too high, there are repercussions. We have no similar system in hog, chicken or turkey confinements, or in the production of beef steers. Maybe there should be a law requiring a camera placed in every confinement unit that are uploaded to a web site.....if we monitored our food like we monitor the eagles in Decorah, the entire food system might be vastly different. The biggest thing that worries me is, what are they trying to hide? Clearly, to go through all the work and effort to make a bill that will make it a felony to photograph or videotape animals that may be abused or neglected.....what are they afraid of? That they will be caught? I just don't think it is worth the time and money to pass this legislation. I think that if farmers are worried that they will be videotaped and exposed for animal neglect and cruelty, then maybe they should rethink how they are doing business. And for the consumers, I think that they should take legislation like this to heart and know that the farmers in these states apparently have something that they want to hide.....I, personally, would not want food from those farmers. It comes back around again to "know your farmer". Anyone wondering what kind of food I grow or how my animals are treated....they are welcome to come out and visit any time and I will be happy to give a tour and let you take pictures - that is what I would want from a farmer if I was buying food from them, and yet most of the country goes out to eat or cooks food at home without the foggiest notion of where their food came from or how it was treated. Needless to say, I have called my state senator and let him know my thoughts on the issue in the hopes that this bill can be killed in the senate. I would encourage everyone else in Iowa to do the same if you care at all about the food you eat. It just doesn't seem to be a bill that is worth while - it decreases the transparency of the food system rather than increasing it and while I can see the farmer's point behind wanting some privacy, I cannot account for their wanting to hide whatever monstrosities they may be committing and if they truly fear being photographed or videotaped, they need to reconsider what they are doing. The fear of media attention is the only check and balance that we have for many of these farms at this point.

Our Chickens Have Only One Bad Day

There comes a time in every chicken's life.....today was such a day for four of the young males on our farm. We have known and loved these chickens since the very day they emerged from their shells. They have lived a life of chicken luxury with organic food to eat, a large fenced in yard in which to roam, other chicken friends to communicate with, but on our farm one rooster is, at times, more than enough. Our day of reckoning varies depending upon exactly when chicks hatch out, so we sometimes find ourselves having to deal with chickens in less than ideal weather, but we have developed enough of a system that regardless of whether it is July or the middle of December, we can make it happen. We usually know that it is time to organize the chicken posse when the hens start looking a little harried. Too many roosters to deal with can lead to some fairly stressed hens. This usually coincides with the roosters just starting to learn to crow, so as the adolescent vocal cords are just warming up and gaining some volume our knives are quietly being sharpened. This is one of our least favorite tasks that has to be done on this little farm, but it comes with the territory of raising our own food, and we view it as a responsibility that we have to these birds to see that they are handled well and don't suffer any longer than absolutely necessary. I have explained it to my kids like this......we eat chicken - we can get it from the store, or we can raise it ourselves. A chicken from the store lived out its entire life in a small cage, never saw the sun, never chased a beetle through the grass, never crowed out its defiance and domination of the hens, never scratched away merrily at the earth worms in the dirt. Our chickens do all those things and more. If we believe in eating happy, healthy animals that we raise ourselves, then we should be able to butcher said animal. The chickens that we get from a store are scooped up, plopped in cages and driven for many miles to a processing plant with much terror and stress in the process.....our chickens get picked up and within 3 minutes it is all over. Our chickens only have one really bad day, and actually more like only 3 really bad minutes. Now, if you have a squeamish stomach, don't continue on with this post because what follows is a graphic depiction of butchering a chicken. Why? Because when we first purchased chickens and hatched out this crazy scheme to raise and butcher our own chickens, there wasn't a good source of common sense description of what was to be done. Thankfully, I invested 7 years of my life becoming a veterinarian.....glad that my education can pay off somehow....and in those 7 years I became well versed with anatomy and the best way to separate a body from its internal parts, and butchering is really just one step below surgery. *********** Stop.....seriously! If you don't want to think about butchering chickens.....stop! If you are interested, however, in how a chicken gets processed (and even the ones in the store have to go through this ) then carry on. But don't say I didn't warn you. I apologize in advance for the poor picture quality....I was inside with one incandescent bulb and chicken liver covered hands The Day Before Reckoning Day Before a chicken meets the butchering knife it is best if they are kept off food for 24 hours to help empty out the digestive tract. We separate ours by putting them in a smaller "hut" with water and their other doomed friends. Reckoning Day A few key items to have on hand:

1. Sharp knives....and by sharp I mean as sharp as you can get them because they will dull quickly.
2. A cone-shaped holder. Sometimes called a "killing cone" for reasons that will be explained later.
3. A large pot to boil water in that will also hold a chicken
4. A bucket of dilute bleach water and a few rags for any clean ups that may have to take place
5. A place to hang the chickens to bleed out
6. A place to hang the chickens for plucking off feathers
7. A blow torch or other mean of controllable flame
8. A clean table upon which to dress out the chicken
9. Rubber bands - one for each chicken
10. 2 gallon freezer bags
11. Sharpie marker
12. Latex gloves
13. A bucket or other garbage storing device that you can throw the entrails, feet and heads in

You're still reading.....I can only assume that your curiosity has gotten the better of you. The first time that you behead a chicken, it can be a little unnerving. They really do flop around a lot so the saying "running around like a chicken with its head cut off" has some basis in reality. We catch our bird and hold him upside down. When held like this they tend to relax and become sedate. We then insert them head first into a cone that Keith made using some somewhat rigid plastic material. These can be commercially bought and are sometimes known as "killing cones". The head protrudes from the end thus allowing either slicing the jugular vein or decapitation. We do the decapitation procedure. I prefer not to have my hands anywhere near a flying axe so we put a twine noose around the chicken's head and that is connected to the fence with the chopping block at the correct point to allow for contact with the chicken's neck. I hold the chicken and control the feet. One quick drop of the axe and they are no longer aware of anything that happens. A quick end to a lovely chicken life. I would have a picture at this point, but it takes both of my hands to hold a crazy headless chicken and there is no way that I would delay this event in the life of a chicken to take time for a picture. The cone is a useful device. It controls the wild antics of a chicken not in possession of its head. Without a cone the wings flap wildly and it creates quite a mess of blood everywhere. With the cone, the wings are contained and the chicken can be held above a bucket and most of the blood can be caught. I usually start walking with the chicken to where it will be hung up since I live in the country and a little blood here and there is quickly washed away with the next rain. The "crazy flapping" is usually over within about 30 seconds as the muscles of the body run out of oxygen and the nerves stop reflex firing. Our chicken butchering is set up into four areas/events

1. Decapitation
2. Draining
3. Plucking
4. Eviscerating

Both Keith and I tackle the first part, the second event happens of its own accord as they hang upside down. Plucking tends to be Keith's job and I (being the small handed vet person) get the task of evisceration.

After the chickens have hung upside down for a few minutes, they are ready to drop into scalding water. We tend to hang the first chicken up and by the time we have killed the remaining chickens the first one is ready for the hot water. Our large enamel canning pot works well for our chickens as they are smaller than typical broilers. They get dunked completely about 8 -12 times in the near boiling water. This helps to loosen the feathers and makes them easier to pluck. The smell of hot, wet feathers, however, is not one that you will quickly be able to forget. Plucking takes patience. I usually start with plucking but quickly run out of said patience and am happy to give it up after the first chicken is done to start the eviscerating. When the chicken is first out of the water it is possible to pull handfuls of feathers rather quickly, but soon your hands are completely covered with wet, sticky feathers. I now understand how awful being "tarred and feathered" really would be. The hard part is getting every single feather... it doesn't usually work, but you can always pull an errant feather out later. When the bird is 99% plucked and looks like a proverbial "rubber chicken" and you just can't stand to pull another feather, then it is time to pull out the blow torch. We scorch off some of the odd "hair" that some chickens have by lightly brushing the torch over their skin. Then they come to me for evisceration.

First thing is first. The feet must be removed at the level of the hock. This is fairly easily accomplished with a sharp knife and a little hyper extension of the joint. Then, the neck is removed. It is somewhat hard to cut through the neck with a knife due to the cervical vertebrae of the chicken being very small and tight, but I have found that if you can wiggle a knife through the space between the vertebrae, you can eventually tease them apart. Avoid trying to "cut" the bone as this will definitely dull the knife very quickly.

At this point, what was once a chicken in my yard looks a lot more like a chicken that I could potentially buy at a store and my stress level starts to go down a bit, but all the insides still need to come out and I am sure that for many people, this is the stressful part.

I start by putting the chicken on his chest with his butt end pointed at me. I cut a circle around the tail (including the scent gland - the prominent little point just in front of the tail) and the cloacal opening. I extend the cut a little deeper through the superficial muscle layers until I start to see the gleam of the intestine. Then, a finger is all that is typically needed to break down the thin connective tissue that holds the cloacal opening and attached intestine in place. This is where the rubber band comes in handy. I place a rubber band around the cloacal opening to prevent any "spillage" of the intestinal contents. It works rather well and keeps the process a lot cleaner.

Then, I flip the rooster over on his back and extend the incision that was made around the cloaca opening toward the head along the midline of the abdomen. You run into the end of the breast bone at some point, but usually the size of the opening can be manipulated enough to allow for the admittance of a few fingers (or a hand). You have to understand that at some point in this process you will be wearing a chicken on your hand. I, being right handed, typically use my right hand for this part. I slide it into the body cavity along the right hand side. There are quite a few thin connective tissue bands that hold body parts in place, these can be broken down with some manipulation. I usually break these down and work from right side, down onto the spine and then to the left side until I feel like the mass of entrails are generally loose. Then, reaching as far forward as I can, I grab hold of the mass (typically the heart is the most prominent organ in the front) and gently and steadily pull back toward me. You don't want to jerk because that may cause something to rip and ooze all over.....not a pretty sight! Eventually, and usually with a horrid "sucking" sound the mass will come out.

There are a few organs that undoubtedly get left behind, namely the lungs and the kidneys. The lungs reside toward the head of the chicken and on either side of the back. See the picture at left....the knife points to wear the lungs usually reside. They are typically tight to the ribs and need to be gently freed from the body wall. I usually do this by scraping a finger in between the ribs - when you feel something soft and spongy....that will be the lung. They usually peel out easily and are a wonderful pink color that my friend and I have since used to describe the color of many things....."oh, that is the perfect color of chicken lung!" .....I know, I know....sick, but true.

The kidneys are a bit more difficult. These reside in the bones of the pelvis and behind many nerves and tendinous attachments. The best way I have found to get rid of the kidneys is simply to "dig" them out. The picture at right show some of the nerves, tendons, etc that are over the top of the kidneys at the end of the knife. I reach into the cavity where I can get to them and break some of the attachments over the top. They usually come out in many pieces and are the area that I focus on when rinsing the chicken out, as this is the time to make sure that any kidney pieces get washed out.

At this point I usually do a visual inspection just to be sure that I have all the stringy things out and anything that looks like it may be part of an organ. Sometimes the top part of the trachea is still in the chest area and that can be a bit of a challenge to get out because it is so slippery. Periodically, you will feel something very tough and sharp at the end of the trachea - this is the carina or the spot where the trachea branches off into left and right lungs- grasping this can sometime make removing the trachea a little easier. All that remains now is the washing, bagging and freezing.

Usually we scrub them out well in cold water from the hydrant. This makes sure that there are no little pieces of anything left in the chicken. We also scrub off the outside as well. Then they are placed in a labeled 2 gallon bag and put immediately in the freezer. As a frame of reference, today (moving somewhat slowly due to the chilly whether) we, my husband and I, processed four chickens in approximately 1.5 hours - start to finish including clean up. We have been known to do as many as 10 in two hours when we get going. I know that it is a much slower process than it would be at a processing plant, but then again we handle the entire process ourselves and monitor to be sure that they are clean and properly handled. When you know you will be the one eating it, you take better care.

In between chickens I usually wipe down the table with dilute bleach and let it dry. I love it when it is sunny out as the sunshine provides a good dose of antimicrobial ultraviolet light as well, not to mention a nicer working environment. I usually change gloves or at least rinse off the ones that I am using in bleach water and I clean the knife.

Now I can just imagine that there are some people that have read this and are completely grossed out, for which I am sorry, (I did warn you at the start).... but the truth of the matter is, if you eat meat, this is how it is produced. Just because it is under plastic wrap on a nice Styrofoam plate doesn't mean that it started out that way. It started out on a farm and the quality of the farm can definitely affect the quality of the meat.

We know and can account for every aspect of the chicken that we eat. We use almost every part of the bird that we can. When we cook with these chickens they are stripped of every edible piece of meat and then the bones, skin and remaining "tufts" of meat are further cooked down in a crock pot to produce some of the best chicken broth know to man. I wish I could fully explain the quality of this food and the incredible taste. All I can do is to encourage you to find a local farmer and talk with them about the food that they produce and then be willing to pay them what they actually deserve for taking the time and care in producing a good quality product.

The 4 - H Conundrum

Had an interesting discussion with my daughter the other day. She is very much into doing things that other people are doing (or have done) lately. I think she is trying to find her niche in the world.

The discussion of interest, however, happened while deciding which 4-H projects to tackle this year. They were due to turn in their enrolment forms and had to have their projects figured out. Food and Nutrition - check, Aerospace - check, Wood Working - check, Horticulture - check, Poultry - ......."what? you don't want to take the chickens again?"

No, .....she wants to take something bigger!

Bigger, as in something that she can "show" around a ring. Not just a simple chicken that you take in and out of its cage while talking to the judge.

She wanted to take a pig because that is what I had done in 4-H. Well, we will have pigs, so I could totally see how the idea crossed her mind, and they say that imitation is the best flattery, but I felt conflicted suddenly. Here is where we come to the conundrum.

4-H is a group that built out of the farmers of the community and as the farming practices started to change back in the 40s, 50s and 60s, so did 4-H. It is now very production oriented - the most animal units in the smallest space for the least amount of money. 4-H does focus on taking good care of these animals and some of the science behind the production is sound, but the bulk of the animals that go to the show are, sadly, raised in confinement type production systems.

We like to imagine that the problem isn't around here. It isn't our neighbors that do this horrible thing to animals, but when you peel off the denial....yeah it is. I drive by several confinement units on my way to work and there is one particular horrid cattle feedlot on the way to my parents with beef cattle piled nose to tail in muck up to their elbows and 6 foot fences all around their tiny enclosure while nice green fields stretch out in every direction for miles around them.

We grow pigs on this farm, but only two or three at a time and very slowly. We feed only organically grown feed and produce scraps from our garden.....well,.... and the occasional chicken that they corner and help themselves to. There is no possible way that a pig, grown in the way that we like to grow them, will gain enough, quickly enough to be shown at the fair. They would be close, but not quite.

Sometimes I wish 4-H went a little farther. Take those pigs on the hoof newly judged and then take them to the butcher and re-judge them based on meat quality and taste after they are butchered. Take it even further and judge them based on nutritional differences found in the meat. I would happily have Faye take a pig to the fair then.

So, how to change the system? This is what I contemplate as I drive by confinement units, hear the latest news on the farm bill, receive letters from my Alma mater vet school and cringe.

Speaking of Vet school....there, too, lies a problem. I cut my teeth in the production animal world in the very bosom of all farm animal knowledge....Iowa State. Did three years of an Animal Science degree and then launched into Vet school with the plan to become a mixed animal practitioner. I learned all the ins and outs of production animal medicine and surgery only to give it all up after I graduated. I started out at a mixed animal practice, but since I was 4 months pregnant with the daughter that now stood in the kitchen staring me down for a bigger animal to show at the fair, I had done only small animal work. Time, distance, and a lot of kids later I find myself where I am now - firmly entrenched in disliking my own industry for their narrow minded views on producing animals.

The AVMA (American Veterinary Medical Association) themselves are pro-confinement operations, pro-antibiotic use in the feed, pro-large scale production. I try to unravel the "why" behind their political stance on all of these issues and I honestly can't see it. Are they (and by they I mean the production animal vets that make up the AVMA) afraid of what might happen to their multi-million dollar money makers - essentially IBP and Tyson foods? Are they afraid of what those huge corporations might do to them? Personally, I say "who cares!" I am a scientist and I have to look at all the ways and means of raising an animal - which is best? Best for the animal and best for the people eating the animal? Becoming a scientist teaches you how to think critically and then becoming a veterinarian promptly brainwashes you into thinking that the large scale production method is the way to go. It would seem to me to be in the best interest of the veterinarians of the country to be the leaders in raising animals - dictating what truly is the best method of raising an animal. We are supposed to be the animal advocates.....or is it that we are supposed to be the large scale production owner's advocate.....I forget....the brainwashing makes my head hurt.

I distinctly remember one production class. The professor was talking about beef production - raising cattle to put on the most meat as fast as possible and what they need to be fed to do that. Silly me, I always thought that cows were supposed to eat grass - they are ruminants after all, designed by thousands of years of genetics to be able to eat the stuff that omnivores and carnivores can't eat and digest. But here was a professor giving us a recipe for what to feed to beef cattle to make them grow really fast....and it wasn't grass. Not only that, but he said....and I remember this almost word for word because it struck me as somehow very wrong, "their feces should be so "hot" they almost bubble" What this actually translates to in non-vet lingo is that they have very loose stools and you will sometimes see a little 'froth' or 'bubble' on the top of the cow pie that they leave. Apparently, that is a sign that they are getting a really high protein feed and laying down a lot of muscle. But then he went on to talk about the liver abscesses that this can lead to because when we feed cattle this unnatural "hot" feed it screws with the bacterial flora of their rumen and then essentially end up with what amount to ulcers in the gut. The bacteria cross from the intestines into the liver and set up shop. These cattle may be putting on a lot of weight, but they are miserable doing it. Imagine someone cramming those "high performance energy bars" down your throat when you have a constant case of severe heart burn and gastritis. What is the production professor's answer to this? Antibiotics in the feed to help keep those bacteria in check.

Wrong, this seems so wrong.

And how did this start? I have no flipping clue. Somewhere along the line the big became bigger and they started thinking of ways that they could produce more faster and make more money. And, as so often happens, overproduction happened and then you have to make a market and a reason - we have to "feed the masses" , have a marketing campaign - "Beef! It's what's for dinner!"....remember that one? The prices eventually fall and the little guys go bankrupt and the big just keep getting bigger and start having a lot more political clout because they have the money to control the legislation. This is all a very sick and twisted system that we live in. What is done to mass produce slowly becomes the norm to the point that veterinarians start learning how to deal with the mess that is the confinement raised beef cow, hog or poultry and accepting it as norm. The norm becomes what is pandered to and taught to the next crowd of young aspiring vets and what is sent down to the extension services in each county as "good production practices" and further taught to young 4-H members contemplating what to take for fair that year.

So, we have come full circle - from me, growing up taking pigs to fair, thinking that this is the best way to do things, to a full veterinary degree later realizing that maybe we should be raising our animals differently and trying to find a way to help my children realize that as well, while fighting a system that tries to teach them the exact opposite.

"Can't do pigs, Honey."

"But why not?"

To which I attempted to explain the above at an 11 year old level.

"Well, how about a cow? Can I take a cow?"

"Beef steer or dairy cow? Because you know that the beef steers don't come home, they eventually go to market and we are back to the production conundrum again."

"A dairy cow. They come home right? And we can raise them like we want to and still take them to show right?"

By God, I think she might just understand and have it figured out. And, she may have just put me over a barrel. Yes, we have talked about getting a cow at some point. Why not now? Why not for a 4-H project? That would give us two years to watch it grow, build what will, no doubt, need to be built to have a milk cow in residence and re-learn my dairy cow medicine that I might need to know.

Therefore, I am now in the market for one newly born Brown Swiss heifer calf. If anyone should know a local dairy that would be willing to sell me one, let me know.

Photo credit: Farmer's Daughter.....clearly another person after my own heart.

Ham and Eggs

What goes really great with eggs? Yeah, you guessed it. We figured that since we had officially launched into having animals on the farm that we would try for a well rounded farm and bring on a few pigs.

I love pigs. Grew up with them for the most part (and, no, that is not a veiled reference to living with my brother). We always had a few on the farm for 4-H purposes for my brother and eventually for me when I got old enough. We even had a sow named Gus, that had a litter of piglets one year. The runt, Porkie, lived in our basement for about 3 weeks drinking milk from a baby bottle attached to the end of a hockey stick......hmmm, maybe that is where the idea of Lambie in the basement came from.....

There are very few farm stories from when I was a kid that didn't somehow involve a pig in one way or another. Leaping Leland, Gus, Dr. Jekyll, Brutus....all pigs of legend on our farm. Our pigs always had a great time of it. They were never confined. We had a wonderful English type piggery at our farm in Minnesota - they could come inside the hog house at any time, or be outside in the cement walled enclosure if they wanted. And, if they were very good pigs, we would set up a low electric fence and run them out onto dirt and then I would overflow the horse tank and let the water trickle down to the hog wallow where they would happily lounge for the entire day like crocodiles in a swamp with only their eyes and noses above the mud.

People that don't know pigs always assume that they are very dirty animals when actually, the exact opposite is true. Pigs are, by nature, very clean animals and highly intelligent. Of the farm animals, the pig ranks the highest in GPA. If they are given half a chance, and a little room, they keep their enclosures clean.

The very worst thing that modern farming practices have done is to confine these wonderful animals. If this entire blog does nothing more than convince just one person to consider where their meat comes from and consider that their "meat" at one point had a life that should have been worth living, then it will have been entirely worth all the writing.

As a veterinarian, we are required to learn about some production animal medicine. We have to have the basics down for approximately nine species - cats, dogs, pigs, chickens, cows, horses, goats, sheep, turkeys....and, as you can see, most of those species are production animals. So we learn about the antibiotics that get put into feed to help them grow quicker or protect them from disease since they are raised in such large quantities in such close quarters. What people don't understand....not even veterinarians in many cases, is that this is not the way these animals developed. They didn't develop to live in tiny confinement units with hundreds, if not thousands of others. If you take them out of that horrible artificial environment and put them in a more natural setting, guess what?..... they don't need any of the food additives or antibiotics to survive. The salmonella and pathogenic E. coli strains disappear.

I have seen confinements, been in them as well and I can tell you with all honesty that I wouldn't wish that on my worst enemy much less an animal that lives and breathes to rut in the dirt. It is sad to see a pig in a confinement. They are stressed from the first day there and they are denied every essence of what being a pig really means.

CAFO (Confined Animal Feeding Operations) this is what they are typically called in the business. In the business of agriculture, an animal is reduced simply to an end product from the moment of its birth. It is only seen as a "unit of production" as in "how many units of production can we fit into that new building". We have become so focused on producing as many units as possible in the smallest space possible, that we have completely forgotten that these so called units are beings with a similar physiology to our own.

What is sadder still.....most non-farming people have no understanding of the conditions that these poor animals suffer in before they are butchered and served up to us in a grocery store under so much plastic wrap. Movies like Food Inc have definitely helped to open peoples' eyes and journalists like Michael Pollan have also helped with books such as An Omnivore's Dilemma and In Defense of Food, but what helps the most?....drive around and look at where these animals are living! If you live anywhere in the Midwest I can almost guarantee that you can find some close by. It is depressing, disheartening and simply wrong on so many levels and the apathy that we have for these animals.....even more wrong.

It depresses me, as a veterinarian, to see animals treated this way. I stand very much opposed to the American Veterinary Medical Association's stance on antibiotic use in animals not to mention the entire idea of a CAFO in and of itself. For a group of people whose lives and careers are devoted to the care and well being of animals, we are a sad lot when it comes to production animals. I typically get the response, "well, they are just food animals" to which I say, any animal that will be forced to give up its life for me deserves to be treated better than they are.

I can sense my production animal vet friends sharpening their knives to come after me. Questions such as, "Well, how would you suggest we raise enough animals for this country then?"

Easy! Small family farms. The way that it was done a generation ago, before Americans became fat and slow and idiotic. Joel Salatin, owner and operator of Polyface Farms in Virginia has been farming with a conscience and sustainably for years. We all bemoan the loss of the "family farm" and hate to see corporate farms take over. Why do they take over? Because we buy their cheap, confinement raised, unsustainable meat, that's why. If we were to STOP buying it, the confinements would disappear.

If I can say nothing else about this issue, it is this......PAY ATTENTION! Notice where your food comes from, how it was raised. If you cannot account for its well being, then you shouldn't be eating it. We are what we eat and likewise, we are what our food eats as well. If our food is raised up to its elbows in shit....it is very likely that we will soon be up to our own elbows in shit (metaphorically, if not literally).

Alright, enough soap boxing for a while.....back to the pigs. One of my clients happened to have pigs that she raised. Farmers that actually farrow pigs are starting to become fewer and farther between (another type of corporate takeover, I'm sorry to say) but I lucked out with her because she had just had a litter of piglets one day when she came in for some other animal related service. We struck a bargain.....2 piglets at weaning for a bag of cat food.

I received 28 pounds of piglet and she went home with 17 pounds of cat food. Who said bargaining wasn't alive and well.

Two tiny little pigs in our new "piggery" section of the shed. They looked so small and lost the first few days. There were times when it appeared that they had disappeared entirely because they would be buried under the straw beneath the heat lamp, but pigs are very food motivated animals and within a few days they recognized us as the prime "food givers".

The reason that pigs are one of the main "meat" animals is that they are about 99% muscle. This was quickly realized as they grew incredibly fast and could move 60 pounds of cement block around with just their snout. We had to catch and treat the smaller of the two pigs once with a shot of antibiotics, but catching him and holding him up long enough to give the shot was a full workout of its own.

We had toyed with the idea of naming them or not. I was one to suggest that maybe we shouldn't name them, as then it becomes exponentially harder to eventually eat them, as discovered by the "Bob noodle soup" incident. So, we decided to name them based solely on marks....we had "Patch" and "Bongo" .....how exactly we came to Bongo is a bit of a mystery, but it involved a thesaurus and an alternate meaning for the word "stripe" I believe.

Pigs love to play. They chase each other, they have running "dashes" and will often make a "woffing" noise that sounds a little like a dog bark when they are having a good time. They are mischievous and humorous and very friendly. I made friends quickly with Patch and Bongo because I almost always had old produce from the garden that I would cart over for them to have. That, and I would share my beer with them.

Pigs will eat just about everything. They are omnivores just like us, but they are much less particular about what they eat. Left overs were a main staple of their diet at our farm. We would save all the scrap produce that we peeled off carrots or potatoes, left over onions, squash seeds, old beans, etc and take them out to the pigs at the end of the day. They would come running for any treats that we would bring. Old windfall apples, peach pits, corn cobs, watermelon rinds, rotting squash and cucumbers, pulled up grass weeds.....any vegetarian produce that we could come up with they loved. We had a strict rule though....no meat, although there was one instance of them catching a chicken on their own and making quite a feast of it. Eggs and milk however were allowed.....so they weren't vegan pigs. They also had an incredible sweet tooth and loved the chocolate chips and marshmallows that sometimes found their way out to them.

Our Patch and Bongo went from 14 pounds each at the start to well over 260 pounds within 6 months. And then it was time to go to market. The week before they left however, they received a special treat every day and split a beer between the two of them the night before.

Thankfully, we live in a small town where there is a small butcher. These, too, are becoming harder to find as the USDA grows in strength and tries to further limit what people can and cannot eat.....apparently it is fine to eat unwholesome, CAFO meat, but healthy happy meat....not so much. But I digress.

Was it difficult to watch Patch and Bongo go off to market? Yes! The shed was a sad and quiet place suddenly, but they had been reaching an age and size that they were clearly uncomfortable and the place had to be vacated so that we could clean it out and get it ready for winter and then, in turn, next year's piglets. The meat from those two pigs filled a chest freezer for us and fed our family of 7 as well as two other families throughout the winter. I cannot express to you how wonderful is bacon that has been raised on marshmallows, beer and fresh air. So, as sad as it was, we gave those two pigs the happiest life we could, we loved them well and cherished their bodies that helped to feed us. They were well treated and well thought of their entire lives and even after.....I would be happy if as much could be said for me when I die.